George Mallory: Did The British Explorer Really Summit Everest?

Why did you want to climb Mount Everest?” Mallory: “Because it’s there.”

George Herbert Leigh Mallory, widely recognized as George Mallory, was an English mountaineer. He was the first to attempt to become the first of mankind to summit Everest in 1924. Nevertheless, he never returned from Everest, becoming one of many corpses on the mountain. His body was lost on Everest for 75 years until it was discovered on 1st May 1999 by a research expedition.

In 1924, Mallory and his climbing partner, Andrew Irvine, went missing during their Everest summit. The duo had last been sighted on 8 June 1924. Whether or not they ascended Everest has been debated and controversial for a century.

George Mallory Bio

How did they identify George Mallory

George Mallory was born on 18th June 1886 in Mobberley, Cheshire, England, UK. The son of Herbert Leigh-Mallory and Annie Beridge, he had three siblings: two sisters and a younger brother were raised together lavishly in Hobcroft Lane in Mobberley in a ten-bedroom house.

His younger brother, Trafford Leigh-Mallory, was the Air Force Commander during World War II.

After finishing preparatory school in West Kirby, Mallory joined a boarding school in Eastbourne named, Glengorse. By 13, Mallor won a mathematics scholarship to Winchester College.

R. L. G. Irving, an English schoolmaster, writer, and mountaineer, introduced Mallory to rock climbing and mountaineering.

Mallory enrolled at Magdalene College, Cambridge, in October 1905, to study history. Upon graduation, he served in Cambridge for a year, writing an essay that he published named under, Boswell the Biographer (1912). Afterward, he relocated to France but lived there shortly.

In 1910, Mallor took a job as a teacher at Charterhouse School.

While at Charterhouse, Mallory met Ruth Turner from Godalming, Surrey, who would be his future wife. They exchanged vows in 1914, just six days prior to Britain entering the First World War.

In 1951, the couple had their first child, a daughter, Frances Clare. Further, the couple was blessed with a daughter Beridge Ruth “Berry” (1917–1953), and a son John (1920–2011).

In December 1915, Mallory enrolled as a second lieutenant in the Royal Garrison Artillery during the First World War. On 1 July 1917, he was promoted to lieutenant, serving in France as an armed force for the Battle of the Somme. On 21 February 1920, Mallory relinquished his commission, holding the rank of lieutenant.

After the war, Mallory returned to Charterhouse.

In 1921, he resigned from the service to go on the first British expedition to Mount Everest. During that time, he became the breadwinner through expeditions, writing, and lecturing, with only partial success.

In 1923, he served as a Cambridge University Extramural Studies Department lecturer.  For the 1924 Everest Expedition, he was given temporary leave. The Temprory Became Forever Permanent.

Early Climbings

Mallory’s first mountain ascent attempt was his friend tried to Mont Vélan in the Alps. However, their try was unsuccessful after Mallory went through altitude sickness.

Passionate about climbing, Mallory successfully ascended Mont Blanc in 1911. He then successfully climbed the Frontier ridge of Mont Maudit.

Mallory conquered Pillar Rock in the English Lake District without assistance in 1913. Today, the route is famous as “Mallory’s Route.”

In 1921, Mallory joined the Mount Everest expedition organized and financed by the Mount Everest Committee. The journey helped explore routes up to Everest’s North Col. Most importantly, the expedition gave the first accurate maps of the region around the mountain.

With Mallory being the leader, he formed a team with the help of around a dozen Sherpas and climbed several lower mountains near Everest. Mallory’s team became the first Westerners to see the Western Cwm at the foot of the Lhotse face. Also, they discovered the East Rongbuk Glacier, which nearly all climbers now use as a route on the Tibetan side of the mountain.

In 1922, Mallory went on his second attempt to Everest Expedition, led by Brigadier General Charles Bruce and climbing leader Edward Strutt. At the time, using supplemental oxygen was seen as going against the spirit of the mountain. In the expedition, Mallory and his two mates: Howard Somervell, and Edward Norton, almost reached the crest of the North-East Ridge, 26,980 ft (8,225 m). However, the bad weather and the late hour made them step back.

Nevertheless, Mallory’s third attempt at Everest was again a colossal flop, departing as the monsoon season began. On 7 June 1922, under his leadership, a group of porters was swept over by an avalanche down the lower slopes of the North Col of Everest in fresh, waist-deep snow, killing seven Sherpas.

Did George Mallory make it to the top of Everest?

1924 British Mount Everest expedition Members
1924 British Mount Everest expedition Members (Highlighted George Mallory)

George Mallory and his climbing partner, Irvine, started their Everest ascent on 6 June 1924. By the end of 7th June, Mallory and Irvine had established a final two-man camp at 8,168 m (26,800 ft). From that point, the pair would attempt their final steps on the summit. As per the source, they were not as smooth on the 8th of June as the were on the 7th and 6th of June.

However, it’s still debatable whether Mallory and his partner accessed the Mount Everest summit or not. Their body disappeared on the mountain’s northeast ridge in 1924. While George Mallory’s body was discovered in 1999, after 75 years. However, Andrew Irvine’s body is still up on the mountain, and no one has ever found it.

How did they identify George Mallory?

George Mallory Bio

In 1999, American mountaineer Eric Simonson conducted Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition in Spring. The expedition’s first motive was to resolve the mystery of the outcome of the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition and next to discover the body of its lead climber George Mallory.

Marched with the clue provided by Chinese climber Wang Hung-bao hit upon a corpse that he called ‘an English dead’ at 26,570 feet (8,100 meters) during the 1975 expedition, Simonson and the team succeeded in discovering.

On 1 May 1999, Conrad Anker, a fellow member of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, was combing the slope when he finally found the corpse. White as alabaster and attached to the ice. Soon, the rest of the team headed toward him and began digging and studying the body from its frozen area. The team found that the right side was severely damaged, with the tibia and fibula of the right leg broken and the right elbow dislocated. Still, the climbing rope had wrapped Mallory around the ribcage.

When Tap Richards observed inside the clothing, he found a name tag: G Mallory.

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Did they ever find the bodies of Mallory and Irvine?

Did they ever find the bodies of Mallory and Irvine

Yes, Mallry’s body was discovered after seventy-five years long by the 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition. Irvine’s body, on the other hand, was never found.

Was Mallory’s camera found?

It’s a tremendous mess in history that Mallory’s camera and his wife’s photo, which he promised his wife Ruth to leave on Everest’s summit, have never been found. Although, Mallory’s belonging, such as a metal tin of stock cubes, a monogrammed handkerchief, a pocketknife, a brass altimeter, and sun goggles in an inside pocket, was discovered in good shape. Any conspiracy??

Did Mallory use oxygen?

Yes, Mallory did use supplemental oxygen in his 4th and final attempt at Everest.

How long was Mallory’s body missing?

Mallory’s destiny was mysterious for 75 years until his frozen corpse was located at 8200 meters (27,000 feet) on the North Face of Mount Everest in Tibeton by a research expedition in 1999. His mummified frozen body is still visible from the North Base Camp.


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